Domaine des Varoilles 2019 En Primeur
Domaine des Varoilles, located in the very centre of Gevrey-Chambertin, combines a number of spectacular vineyards from village to grand cru level. At its heart are two very special premiers crus monopoles, La Romanée and Clos des Varoilles.
Gilbert Hammel, joint proprietor since 1990, sold his share of the domaine in July 2020 to his co-owners, the Chéron family. Philippe Chéron has now taken charge, aided by his three sisters.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CLOS DU MEIX DES OUCHES, MONOPOLE
£225/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
This small parcel, just one hectare of ‘village’ wine, is a monopole, solely owned by the domaine. The soil here resembles 1er Cru Champonnet, its neighbour, from which it is separated by a narrow road. Bold aromas of blackberry and redcurrant, with cedary spice and a little tomato leaf – an inviting nose. The palate is firmly structured, with leafy blackberry fruit and assertive tannins. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+
Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2027
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CHAMPONNETS
£310/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
This is a 0.7 hectare plot which is even more stony than neighbouring Clos du Meix des Ouches. A really attractive raspberry fruited nose, with dark flinty, ferrous minerals. The palate has a red berried exuberance which contrasts nicely with the firm Gevrey tannins. Punches above its weight this year, very good. 15% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2030
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU LA ROMANÉE MONOPOLE
£365/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
This, the highest of the domaine’s vineyards, just above the Clos des Varoilles, comprises one hectare of vines, with an average age of over 60 years. The soil is very shallow here – just 50cm – over a gravel and limestone bedrock, naturally low-yielding. Darkly, plushly fruited on the nose, this revels in its habitual cosseting winter berries and savoury spices. The palate is wonderfully decadent, violets, plums, bitter chocolate and blackberries, with a cushioned yet defined tannic structure. 20% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18
Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2034
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS DES VAROILLES MONOPOLE
£350/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Just down the slope from La Romanée and neighbouring Lavaux St Jacques, this six-hectare vineyard of 45-50 year old vines produces a more red-fruited, aromatic style of wine. Pretty, playful red berries on the nose, rose petals and a little spice. The palate is cool and precise, with firm tannins exerting a fine grip on the finish. 25% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2035
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU
£545/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
The domaine’s holding in Charmes is a single 0.8-hectare parcel, opposite Latricières-Chambertin, on a gentle slope. Sweet, inky dark blackberries on the nose, with raspberry aromas emerging behind, accompanied by cedary spice. The palate is firmly built from the off, the strident tannins exerting an initial squeeze, before the powerful raspberry fruit comes through rather majestically, buoyed by fresh acidity. This has the usual beguiling combination of upfront charm (the name is not a coincidence) with clear ageing potential. 50% new oak, from the Rousseau cooperage.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2028 – 2038
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